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Eco Friendly & Socially Conscious Yarns
Hiring and sourcing local supports the economy
and the environment.
by Phyllis Howe (November 3, 2008)
Ask anyone in the textile or fiber industry what it means to
label a yarn as "green" or "organic," and you
will get as many answers as the number of people you ask. There are
no enforced standards or guidelines for organic yarns, and
eco-responsible practices are very difficult to enforce and
maintain. The production of most textiles and related products,
including yarn, often include polluting substances such as dyes and
fixatives. Strong chemical materials are needed in order to produce
the vibrant colors that appeal to designers, consumers and all those
who work with yarns.
In addition, a popular current claim is being made for the
production of fibers in a socially conscious environment. While many
highly regarded companies promote cottage industry development and
the societies that are thus affected, it is necessary to understand
and examine the countries where labor and safety laws may be lax in
order to properly evaluate the social merits of such industry.
This is not to say that the practices are intended to be
irresponsible. It's simply that production of low margin materials,
such as cloth and yarn, requires many hands, working many hours and
unless watchdog policies are maintained, it's impossible to always
guarantee that workplace standards are kept high.
Add to this the devaluation of the U.S. dollar and the resultant
rising costs to manufacturers, and it is no wonder that some
manufacturers are re-considering another form of commitment to the
well being of one's citizens and economy: Realistic and responsible
domestic sourcing, hiring, and production.
In the end, supporting local communities, where and when
possible, is just good business for more than one reason. Those who
have been able to do it successfully cite the following benefits of
going local:
A) A local work force is employed and families and goals are
supported. B) Quality control is more easily maintained, as
is flexibility in adaptation to change, customization, and faster
delivery. C) Strengthens community relations. D) Manageable
shipping costs. E) Energy savings via use of local
transportation.
While local hiring and sourcing is feasible for some products, it
is often not possible to source all materials domestically. When
necessary to import, another factor to consider is the social wisdom
of working within countries where fair trade principles regarding
labor are actively enforced. Italy and Japan are examples of two
countries who produce fine fiber and yarn products in a responsible
environment.
One company that has successfully employed this mode of
production management is ArtYarns, located in White Plains, NY. (www.artyarns.com).
As a producer of high-quality, fine knitting and crochet fibers,
ArtYarns employs several U.S. citizens from its local neighborhood
-- all of whom are supporting families here and abroad.
Elliott Schreier, President/CEO of ArtYarns, says, "When we
have to buy out of the U.S., we feel it's important to only buy our
yarns from countries where fair trade labor practices are enforced,
but whenever possible, we make sure to source everything as close to
home as possible. That includes dyes, equipment, and our staff. We
feel good about hiring and training local people, as well. All of
our employees have family responsibilities and have put down roots
in the community."
In the end, it's not just about a label that makes claims. It's
about the realities of a business and what they can do on every step
of the journey from raw materials to finished product to insure that
all phases of production are conscious and humane. Many smart
companies realize that a lot of that takes place close to home.
(Note: To read previous Category Reports, click on the
titles in the right-hand column.)
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